LC:M DAY TWO

LC:M DAY TWO

The masculine past meets the metrosexual future on the catwalk

by KOD Staff

Day Two began with J.W. Anderson’s strong and confident show, acknowledging gender as a “dated concept”.

Sexless secretary chic was the key theme as his models paraded the catwalk dressed in high necks, tight blouses and platform shoes. Anderson declared, “I wanted to achieve something awkward, less comfortable. A little bit...sweet, sugary, dirty. Like the people who work in call centers”.

J.W. Anderson, AW14. Photo by Piczo

J.W. Anderson, AW14. Photo by Piczo

Another of the day’s highlights was Alexander McQueen. Sarah Burton’s vision was a fairytale nightmare of raven feathers, leather jackets and hollow eyed models. Injections of tartan paid homage to Lee McQueen.

Alexander McQueen, AW14. Photo by Lea Colombo

Alexander McQueen, AW14. Photo by Lea Colombo

Hunter Gather’s abstract expressionist splatters were reminiscent of Jackson Pollock and the Clash soundtrack gave the show a definite punk edge, reminiscent of yesterday’s elegant brutality.

Hunter Gather, AW14. Photo by Condrut Negut

Hunter Gather, AW14. Photo by Condrut Negut

Kay Kwok’s collection also merged art with fashion. Mod suits were paired with sculpture structures while abstract prints and oversized blazers revealed Kwok’s attempt to innovate with composition.

Kay Kwok, AW14. Photo by Derrick Kakembo

Kay Kwok, AW14. Photo by Derrick Kakembo

Visors and smears of glitter gave the show a sci-fi feel, a theme which was continued in James Long’s space warrior aesthetic. Slicked blue hair, quilted jackets and otherworldly textures were the face of Long’s innovation with new techniques. 

James Long, AW14. Photo by Nicole Gomes

James Long, AW14. Photo by Nicole Gomes

Christopher Kane and Kit Neale bothlooked to their pasts for inspiration. Kane’s bulbous interconnected patterns were born from memories of happy days spent playing with a make-your-own-molecular-structure kit. 

Christopher Kane, AW14

Christopher Kane, AW14

Neale indulged his childhood memories of London’s Elephant & Castle, which is now in line for huge regeneration. “I remember when I was a kid roaming the under paths, going to the record shop or Woolworths and bowling in the shopping centre… it’s like something out of a John Walters film but set in South London. I find it an amazing place!”

The collection translated his nostalgia into tropical, vermin- heavy prints showcased in a setting of crumbling bricks. Each piece evoked a feeling which was young and hopeful with a strong sense of humor – always endearing on the catwalk. 

London_collections_menswear_fashion_article_kids of dada  Kit Neale, AW14. Photo by John Michael O Sullivan

Kit Neale, AW14. Photo by John Michael O Sullivan

The Savile Row, Woolmark and St James show was another sentimental occasion, playing with notions of heritage. Fittingly exclusive, the collection was showcased inside a glass box. Inside the box was a pre-war office setting. Models were dressed in exquisite tailoring, reminding us of the British tradition.

London_collections_menswear_fashion_article_kids of dada  Savile Row, Woolmark and St James, AW14. Photo by Derrick Kakembo

Savile Row, Woolmark and St James, AW14. Photo by Derrick Kakembo

Duchamp also used a theatrical setting to unveil the 25th anniversary collection. Alpha male models gathered round the card table to celebrate the brands coming of age. The scene, which saw sharp suits, luxury corduroy and printed silks, glamorized old school masculinity.

Duchamp, AW14. Photo by Boy Meets Fashion

Duchamp, AW14. Photo by Boy Meets Fashion

The tension between the new metro-sexual male and the traditionally masculine figure became particularly apparent in Day Two. Placed side by side, J.W. Anderson’s collection and The Savile Row show could have been from different worlds: the beauty of menswear.

Missed our coverage of Day One? Find it here.

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