LC:M DAY TWO
The masculine past meets the metrosexual future on the catwalk
by KOD Staff
Day Two began with J.W. Anderson’s strong and confident show, acknowledging gender as a “dated concept”.
Sexless secretary chic was the key theme as his models paraded the catwalk dressed in high necks, tight blouses and platform shoes. Anderson declared, “I wanted to achieve something awkward, less comfortable. A little bit...sweet, sugary, dirty. Like the people who work in call centers”.
Another of the day’s highlights was Alexander McQueen. Sarah Burton’s vision was a fairytale nightmare of raven feathers, leather jackets and hollow eyed models. Injections of tartan paid homage to Lee McQueen.
Hunter Gather’s abstract expressionist splatters were reminiscent of Jackson Pollock and the Clash soundtrack gave the show a definite punk edge, reminiscent of yesterday’s elegant brutality.
Kay Kwok’s collection also merged art with fashion. Mod suits were paired with sculpture structures while abstract prints and oversized blazers revealed Kwok’s attempt to innovate with composition.
Visors and smears of glitter gave the show a sci-fi feel, a theme which was continued in James Long’s space warrior aesthetic. Slicked blue hair, quilted jackets and otherworldly textures were the face of Long’s innovation with new techniques.
Christopher Kane and Kit Neale bothlooked to their pasts for inspiration. Kane’s bulbous interconnected patterns were born from memories of happy days spent playing with a make-your-own-molecular-structure kit.
Neale indulged his childhood memories of London’s Elephant & Castle, which is now in line for huge regeneration. “I remember when I was a kid roaming the under paths, going to the record shop or Woolworths and bowling in the shopping centre… it’s like something out of a John Walters film but set in South London. I find it an amazing place!”
The collection translated his nostalgia into tropical, vermin- heavy prints showcased in a setting of crumbling bricks. Each piece evoked a feeling which was young and hopeful with a strong sense of humor – always endearing on the catwalk.
The Savile Row, Woolmark and St James show was another sentimental occasion, playing with notions of heritage. Fittingly exclusive, the collection was showcased inside a glass box. Inside the box was a pre-war office setting. Models were dressed in exquisite tailoring, reminding us of the British tradition.
Duchamp also used a theatrical setting to unveil the 25th anniversary collection. Alpha male models gathered round the card table to celebrate the brands coming of age. The scene, which saw sharp suits, luxury corduroy and printed silks, glamorized old school masculinity.
The tension between the new metro-sexual male and the traditionally masculine figure became particularly apparent in Day Two. Placed side by side, J.W. Anderson’s collection and The Savile Row show could have been from different worlds: the beauty of menswear.
Missed our coverage of Day One? Find it here.