PARIS MEN'S FASHION WEEK

PARIS MEN'S FASHION WEEK

Designers against racism and collaborations with artists

by KOD Staff

Walter van Beirendonck’s street cast models emerged onto the runway in tribal prints, red face markings and Native American headdresses. It was the headwear, made by Stephen Jones, which proved controversial. Daubed with the message “Stop Racism” in both English and Russian, these pieces draw attention to fashion’s hollow appropriation of cultural symbols – think bindis, tattoos and Chanel’s recent use of headdresses in Dallas.

Walter Van Beirendonck AW14 by Myfashionreel

Walter Van Beirendonck AW14 by Myfashionreel

Umit Benan also focused on the issue of race in a collection inspired by Jackie Robinson, the first African American to play in Major League baseball. Robinson’s acceptance into the Brooklyn Dodgers ended racial segregation in the sport. In 1947, it was a huge leap forward for civil rights. Benan’s models wore varsity jackets, sporty quilting and wide brimmed hats. Martin Luther King’s speech, “I have a dream” formed part of the soundtrack before Umit Benan ran out on the runway, brandishing a sign; “No to racism”.

Umit Benan AW14 by Lea Colombo

Umit Benan AW14 by Lea Colombo

Haider Ackermann’s show was perfectly suited to Paris. Dreamy and bohemian, pale models wore cravats and harem style pants. Layers, delicate prints and oversized coats added to the atmosphere of eccentric creativity – think Oscar Wilde wondering the city’s smoke-filled alley ways.

Haider Ackermann AW14 by Lea Colombo

Haider Ackermann AW14 by Lea Colombo

Oversized coats also feature in Valentino’s collection. The show featured Aztec prints and blocks of color, in the style of Mondrian. The collection was casual, including several striped suits which could almost be mistaken for pyjamas.

Valentino AW14 by HommeModel

Valentino AW14 by HommeModel

The prints in Yohji Yamamoto’s show seemed heavily influenced by nature – models wore an autumnal burnt red, earthy Aztec designs alongside leafy and floral patterns. Despite the skulls, the collection gave the impression of a bright and hopeful winter. No January blues here.

Yohji Yamamoto AW14 by Mitchell Sams

Yohji Yamamoto AW14 by Mitchell Sams

Designers Humberto Leon and Carol Lim, based the Kenzo show on the idea of seeing. To explain their philosophy, they told their audience; “There are things in life our eyes can not see, sometimes nature plays a trick, we imagine we are something other than we truly are”. Prints based on the landscape of Northwest America had an abstract design, leaving interpretation up to the viewer.

Kenzo Homme AW14 by Jacques Habbah

Kenzo Homme AW14 by Jacques Habbah

Rick Owens and Junya Watanabe both toyed with ideas of authority. To explain his collection, Rick Owens told the crowd, “I was thinking about how a young man reacts to authority, the way he is hard wired to reject it in order to move forward and create his own authority… A man who’s interested in dressing, is interested in expressing himself. And part of that is rejecting standards”. The collection was severe – with knee high boots and nun-like head coverings. Imposingly minimal, the show was a strong continuation of Owen’s alternative achievements.

Rick Owens AW14 by Sonnyphotos

Rick Owens AW14 by Sonnyphotos

The Junya Watanabe show used punk-style to symbolize their rejection of conventional values in menswear. Tartans, patched denim and combat boots were paired with traditional tweed to a soundtrack of Oasis. Models took the form of the rebellious English gentlemen who had grown tired of what’s expected of him. Bowler hats gave a clockwork orange edge – emphasizing unpredictability.

Junya Watanbe AW14 by GQ

Junya Watanbe AW14 by GQ

Lanvin also weaved punk into the AW14 collection with statement undercuts and biker jackets. Elegant coats and tailoring were embellished with monochrome mod prints and floor length scarves.

Paris_mens_fashion_week-article_kids of dada  Lanvin AW14 by Lea Colombo

Lanvin AW14 by Lea Colombo

Raf Simons and Sterling Ruby’s collaborative collection treated clothes like canvas, with paint-like spatters, scrawled text and a collage effect. Artist, Sterling Ruby noted “The pace of fashion is a shock to me, art has a slower pace”. Together the pair merged the two creative worlds; the result was unique and entirely memorable.

Raf Simons and Sterling Ruby AW14 by Morgan O'Donovan

Raf Simons and Sterling Ruby AW14 by Morgan O'Donovan

In the Givenchy show, the influence of the art world was also clear. The collection indulged the spattered paint effect and smudged abstract shapes featured on several pieces.  The clothes had an urban feel with baggy trousers, black caps and basketball vests. Yet most striking was the netted masks – giving models a feminine mystery.

Givenchy AW14 by Morgan O'Donovan

Givenchy AW14 by Morgan O'Donovan

Commes des Garcons Homme Plus created a sinister atmosphere with black wigs styled like gas masks, over the models’ faces. Holes and rips punctured the collection and the show’s setting – a derelict church – added to the eerie atmosphere.

Comme des Garcons AW14 by designandculturebyed

Comme des Garcons AW14 by designandculturebyed

The Saint Laurent show also took advantage of its setting for added atmosphere. In a 17th century Baroque hospital filled with LED lights, the audience sat cross legged on the floor. Creative Director, Hedi Slimane chose to collaborate with Raymond Pettibon – the New York artist best know for his Sonic Youth album art. The artist worked with Slimane on the season’s manifesto where comic book sketches and quotes by writers featured in a leather-bound book. The collection itself reinvented the classic blazer with leopard print, glitter and tartan. The clothes’ rockabilly influence and Slimane’s glowing reputation made the show an instant hit on Instagram.

Saint Laurent AW14 by Lea Colombo

Saint Laurent AW14 by Lea Colombo

Leave a comment

Please note: comments must be approved before they are published.

90'S GRUNGE WEIGHS IN ON FASHION

Smudged lipstick, lolita-esque nighties, & ripped stockings, ready to confuse & disturb

Chloe Mackey

Read more »
Share »

A SEXLESS SOCIETY IS HERE

Fashion rides the gender blending trend  

Maria Raposo

Read more »
Share »

THE HEDI SLIMANE EFFECT ON YVES SAINT LAURENT

How the designer remade the house of Yves Saint Laurent

Greg French

Read more »
Share »

NAN GOLDIN: THE BALLAD OF SEXUAL DEPENDENCY

The artist captures the essence of humanity and life on the edge

Ellie Howard

Read more »
Share »

SYNCHRODOGS: “I must be dreaming”

We speak to the photography duo about synchronicity & the power of dreams

Ellie Howard

Read more »
Share »

MEET THE ARTISTS CHINA CAN'T KEEP CONTAINED

Artists Sun Yuan & Peng Yu use dead babies & live animals in their creations to blur the lines of art & reality

Peter Yeung

Read more »
Share »

JOSEPH BEUYS: I LIKE AMERICA AND AMERICA LIKES ME

What we can learn from artist about race relations and how to heal a nation    

Peter Yeung

Read more »
Share »

THE COLLAGE RENAISSANCE

Contemporary collage is the new Pop Art collectors are buying into

Harriet Baker

Read more »
Share »

DAVID BOWIE PUSHED THE LIMITS OF MUSIC, ART & FASHION

Bowie was an artist and an explorer that embodied true individuality that our generation craves

Fiona Ma

Read more »
Share »

FASHION PHOTOGRAPHY GETS HYPER-REAL

From Erwin Blumenfeld to Nick Knight, fashion constructs fantastical images

Greg French

Read more »
Share »

90'S GRUNGE WEIGHS IN ON FASHION

Smudged lipstick, lolita-esque nighties, & ripped stockings, ready to confuse & disturb

Chloe Mackey

Read more »
Share »

A SEXLESS SOCIETY IS HERE

Fashion rides the gender blending trend  

Maria Raposo

Read more »
Share »

THE HEDI SLIMANE EFFECT ON YVES SAINT LAURENT

How the designer remade the house of Yves Saint Laurent

Greg French

Read more »
Share »

NAN GOLDIN: THE BALLAD OF SEXUAL DEPENDENCY

The artist captures the essence of humanity and life on the edge

Ellie Howard

Read more »
Share »

SYNCHRODOGS: “I must be dreaming”

We speak to the photography duo about synchronicity & the power of dreams

Ellie Howard

Read more »
Share »

MEET THE ARTISTS CHINA CAN'T KEEP CONTAINED

Artists Sun Yuan & Peng Yu use dead babies & live animals in their creations to blur the lines of art & reality

Peter Yeung

Read more »
Share »

JOSEPH BEUYS: I LIKE AMERICA AND AMERICA LIKES ME

What we can learn from artist about race relations and how to heal a nation    

Peter Yeung

Read more »
Share »

THE COLLAGE RENAISSANCE

Contemporary collage is the new Pop Art collectors are buying into

Harriet Baker

Read more »
Share »

DAVID BOWIE PUSHED THE LIMITS OF MUSIC, ART & FASHION

Bowie was an artist and an explorer that embodied true individuality that our generation craves

Fiona Ma

Read more »
Share »

FASHION PHOTOGRAPHY GETS HYPER-REAL

From Erwin Blumenfeld to Nick Knight, fashion constructs fantastical images

Greg French

Read more »
Share »

THE EVOCATIVE IMAGES OF STREET PHOTOGRAPHY

Eminent street photographers find beauty in the ordinary

Leah Sinclair

Read more »
Share »

THE ZINE SCENE IS BACK

Self-Publishing is Having a Moment and It’s Redefining Youth and Self Expression

Leah Sinclair

Read more »
Share »

PLASTIC PURGERY – BARBIE IN BONDAGE BREAKS THE INTERNET

Photographer Mariel Clayton Reinvents the Stereotype of the Female Form

Fiona Ma

Read more »
Share »

LOUIS VUITTON - SERIES 3 EXHIBITION

Nicolas Ghesquière: less mask, more man

Greg French

Read more »
Share »

REGENERATION OR GENTRIFICATION?

The changing face of London’s artistic communities

Peter Yeung

Read more »
Share »

INSIDE THE CHELSEA HOTEL

The legendary New York hangout of rockstars and Hollywood royalty

Ellie Howard

Read more »
Share »

IN CONVERSATION WITH OLAF BREUNING

The artist talks about the endless interpretations of his work and life

Ellie Howard

Read more »
Share »

REVEALED: KURT COBAIN'S ORIGINAL ARTWORK

A dark look into the mind of Nirvana’s tortured frontman

Daryl Mersom

Read more »
Share »

ABOUT A GIRL: TEENAGERS IN POP CULTURE

Exploring media fantasies from saints to bad-ass sinners of female youth

Leah Sinclair

Read more »
Share »

ART GONE VIRAL

Performance art videos are paving the way for activism through social media

Leah Sinclair

Read more »
Share »

IN CONVERSATION WITH ARTIST TOM LEAMON

The ritual experiments of painting and poetry

Ellie Howard

Read more »
Share »

COLLAGE ARTIST HOLLY-ANNE BUCK/COLLAGISM

We talk to the artist about playing with abstraction & reconstructing reality

Ellie Howard

Read more »
Share »

FROM UNISEX TO ANTI-FASHION

Meet Rudi Gernreich, the first gender blender fashion activist

Alessandro Esculapio

Read more »
Share »

THE REVIVAL OF WARP N’ WEFT

From artisan to art; the lost craft of tapestry is making a comeback

KOD Staff

Read more »
Share »

THE ALCHEMY OF COLLAGE: ARTISTS IRINA & SILVIU SZEKELY

Art is not art if it doesn’t generate misrepresentation, confusion, anger or sarcasm

Ellie Howard

Read more »
Share »

THE CREATIVE CLASS: MAKING IT THEIR WAY

Photographer Francesca Allen captures the talented, genuine and real

KOD Staff

Read more »
Share »

'80S ICON KEITH HARING’S POP SHOP

The Art and Commerce of Giving Back

Alessandro Esculapio

Read more »
Share »

THE DEATH OF BRONSON

The art and literature of "Charles Bronson"; Britain's most notorious prisoner

KOD Staff

Read more »
Share »

THE PSYCHEDELIC LOVE-IN OF THE FABULOUS COCKETTES

San Francisco’s original underground glitter troupe

KOD Staff

Read more »
Share »

THE MODERN DAY DANDY CULT

Old fashioned values and classic sartorial style returns to mens fashion

Ellie Howard

Read more »
Share »
Top