FROM RENEGADES TO FASHION INSIDERS

FROM RENEGADES TO FASHION INSIDERS

Can we still trust the fashion bloggers like Bryanboy and Susie Bubble?

by Martha Barnett

When blogging was born it was personality driven, intimate and conversational:  from street style through to couture, bloggers tried it on, ate their lunch in it,  joyously admitted when they made a fashion faux pas in it and then flung it in the wash. They were the renegades that demystified fashion and made the industry relatable and accessible to real world people, like you and I.

Susie Bubble has been blogging for nearly ten years. She not only writes but collaborates with fashion power brands such as Louis Vuitton

Susie Bubble has been blogging for nearly ten years. She not only writes but collaborates with fashion power brands such as Louis Vuitton.

As magazine sales plummeted and the number of blog readers rose in their  thousands, fashion eventually woke up to the potential of these online arbiters. In 2014 it seems that bloggers have their feet well under the fashion table: Granny-chic wunderkind Tavi has been sitting front row at shows rubbing knees with Anna Wintour, the chichi Bryanboy is collaborating with Adrienne Landau on a line of unisex pop-coloured rabbit fur accessories and LA based Aimee Song is fronting a campaign for Botkier. Fashion blogs are littered with banners for Net-a-Porter and Tommy Hilfliger and just about every one of them seems to have an affiliate marketing campaign or brand tie-in. Bloggers are no longer on the same side of the fence as their followers - outsiders looking in – they have become part of the mechanism of fashion. Many like Bryanboy have parlayed their brand into celebrity and collaborations with Fortune 500 companies.

Susie Bubble Stats

Susie Bubble Stats

There are now bloggers and wanna-be bloggers vying for attention outside shows, sporting jaw-dropping costumes in the hope of getting papped and boosting their fame and income. This peacocking has been ruffling the feathers of the fashion elite who subscribe to the ‘wear black and glide coolly past the cameras’ ethos. In an interview with the Wall Street Journal, Catherine Bennett – Senior Vice President and Managing Director of IMG which runs Mercedes Benz New York Fashion Week – revealed plans to deal with this ‘zoo’ by cutting the number of bloggers attending shows by 20%.

Operating under the name 'Bryanboy,' Filipino celebrity fashion blogger, a former web developer started blogging at age 24

Operating under the name 'Bryanboy,' Filipino celebrity fashion blogger, a former web developer started blogging at age 24. Today he is handsomely rewarded to the tune of a six-figure income.

Fashion may have announced a cull but as long as bloggers have thousands of followers – the infamous Bryanboy has 200k more than British Harper's Bizarre on Twitter – they will continue to be an integral part of the industry.
These days, reading a fashion blog can be like flicking through the pages of a magazine: all promotions and gloss. Fine for Elle or Grazia but why does it seem so invasive and inappropriate on this platform?

Bryanboy: The Stats

Bryanboy: The Stats

Our expectations of the blogger are based on what they used to be: they were honest and they aligned themselves with their readers. This honesty is diluted when they work for the brands or pander to advertisers. When they post professionally taken, beautifully lit Photoshopped photos it creates stunning visuals but it also makes them seem less accessible and less real. Bloggers are distancing themselves from the people who originally gave them fashion clout: their followers.

F“It Girl”, Tavi Gevinson launched Rookie Magazine at age 15, currently she’s acting in a Broadway hit play “This is Our Youth” to rave reviews

“It Girl”, Tavi Gevinson launched Rookie Magazine at age 15, currently she’s acting in a Broadway hit play “This is Our Youth” to rave reviews.

However, it would be underestimating the savvy readers of fashion blogs to think they can’t spot a marketing ploy or sift through sites to find the gold amongst the grit. These are the people who hunt for blogs because they love fashion – not because they love marketing campaigns and brand tie-ins. If readers decide that a blogger is no longer accessible or credible they will click ‘unfollow’. The blogger’s numbers will drop, they will lose their sway with the
fashion industry, and it will drop them too.

FTavi Gevinson: The Stats

Tavi Gevinson: The Stats

It is the readers, not the industry, who make or break a fashion blogger and it will be the readers who decide which bloggers fall into the dark pit of Catherine Bennett’s uninvited 20%.

Leave a comment

Please note: comments must be approved before they are published.

90'S GRUNGE WEIGHS IN ON FASHION

Smudged lipstick, lolita-esque nighties, & ripped stockings, ready to confuse & disturb

Chloe Mackey

Read more »
Share »

A SEXLESS SOCIETY IS HERE

Fashion rides the gender blending trend  

Maria Raposo

Read more »
Share »

THE HEDI SLIMANE EFFECT ON YVES SAINT LAURENT

How the designer remade the house of Yves Saint Laurent

Greg French

Read more »
Share »

NAN GOLDIN: THE BALLAD OF SEXUAL DEPENDENCY

The artist captures the essence of humanity and life on the edge

Ellie Howard

Read more »
Share »

SYNCHRODOGS: “I must be dreaming”

We speak to the photography duo about synchronicity & the power of dreams

Ellie Howard

Read more »
Share »

MEET THE ARTISTS CHINA CAN'T KEEP CONTAINED

Artists Sun Yuan & Peng Yu use dead babies & live animals in their creations to blur the lines of art & reality

Peter Yeung

Read more »
Share »

JOSEPH BEUYS: I LIKE AMERICA AND AMERICA LIKES ME

What we can learn from artist about race relations and how to heal a nation    

Peter Yeung

Read more »
Share »

THE COLLAGE RENAISSANCE

Contemporary collage is the new Pop Art collectors are buying into

Harriet Baker

Read more »
Share »

DAVID BOWIE PUSHED THE LIMITS OF MUSIC, ART & FASHION

Bowie was an artist and an explorer that embodied true individuality that our generation craves

Fiona Ma

Read more »
Share »

FASHION PHOTOGRAPHY GETS HYPER-REAL

From Erwin Blumenfeld to Nick Knight, fashion constructs fantastical images

Greg French

Read more »
Share »

90'S GRUNGE WEIGHS IN ON FASHION

Smudged lipstick, lolita-esque nighties, & ripped stockings, ready to confuse & disturb

Chloe Mackey

Read more »
Share »

A SEXLESS SOCIETY IS HERE

Fashion rides the gender blending trend  

Maria Raposo

Read more »
Share »

THE HEDI SLIMANE EFFECT ON YVES SAINT LAURENT

How the designer remade the house of Yves Saint Laurent

Greg French

Read more »
Share »

NAN GOLDIN: THE BALLAD OF SEXUAL DEPENDENCY

The artist captures the essence of humanity and life on the edge

Ellie Howard

Read more »
Share »

SYNCHRODOGS: “I must be dreaming”

We speak to the photography duo about synchronicity & the power of dreams

Ellie Howard

Read more »
Share »

MEET THE ARTISTS CHINA CAN'T KEEP CONTAINED

Artists Sun Yuan & Peng Yu use dead babies & live animals in their creations to blur the lines of art & reality

Peter Yeung

Read more »
Share »

JOSEPH BEUYS: I LIKE AMERICA AND AMERICA LIKES ME

What we can learn from artist about race relations and how to heal a nation    

Peter Yeung

Read more »
Share »

THE COLLAGE RENAISSANCE

Contemporary collage is the new Pop Art collectors are buying into

Harriet Baker

Read more »
Share »

DAVID BOWIE PUSHED THE LIMITS OF MUSIC, ART & FASHION

Bowie was an artist and an explorer that embodied true individuality that our generation craves

Fiona Ma

Read more »
Share »

FASHION PHOTOGRAPHY GETS HYPER-REAL

From Erwin Blumenfeld to Nick Knight, fashion constructs fantastical images

Greg French

Read more »
Share »

THE EVOCATIVE IMAGES OF STREET PHOTOGRAPHY

Eminent street photographers find beauty in the ordinary

Leah Sinclair

Read more »
Share »

THE ZINE SCENE IS BACK

Self-Publishing is Having a Moment and It’s Redefining Youth and Self Expression

Leah Sinclair

Read more »
Share »

PLASTIC PURGERY – BARBIE IN BONDAGE BREAKS THE INTERNET

Photographer Mariel Clayton Reinvents the Stereotype of the Female Form

Fiona Ma

Read more »
Share »

LOUIS VUITTON - SERIES 3 EXHIBITION

Nicolas Ghesquière: less mask, more man

Greg French

Read more »
Share »

REGENERATION OR GENTRIFICATION?

The changing face of London’s artistic communities

Peter Yeung

Read more »
Share »

INSIDE THE CHELSEA HOTEL

The legendary New York hangout of rockstars and Hollywood royalty

Ellie Howard

Read more »
Share »

IN CONVERSATION WITH OLAF BREUNING

The artist talks about the endless interpretations of his work and life

Ellie Howard

Read more »
Share »

REVEALED: KURT COBAIN'S ORIGINAL ARTWORK

A dark look into the mind of Nirvana’s tortured frontman

Daryl Mersom

Read more »
Share »

ABOUT A GIRL: TEENAGERS IN POP CULTURE

Exploring media fantasies from saints to bad-ass sinners of female youth

Leah Sinclair

Read more »
Share »

ART GONE VIRAL

Performance art videos are paving the way for activism through social media

Leah Sinclair

Read more »
Share »

IN CONVERSATION WITH ARTIST TOM LEAMON

The ritual experiments of painting and poetry

Ellie Howard

Read more »
Share »

COLLAGE ARTIST HOLLY-ANNE BUCK/COLLAGISM

We talk to the artist about playing with abstraction & reconstructing reality

Ellie Howard

Read more »
Share »

FROM UNISEX TO ANTI-FASHION

Meet Rudi Gernreich, the first gender blender fashion activist

Alessandro Esculapio

Read more »
Share »

THE REVIVAL OF WARP N’ WEFT

From artisan to art; the lost craft of tapestry is making a comeback

KOD Staff

Read more »
Share »

THE ALCHEMY OF COLLAGE: ARTISTS IRINA & SILVIU SZEKELY

Art is not art if it doesn’t generate misrepresentation, confusion, anger or sarcasm

Ellie Howard

Read more »
Share »

THE CREATIVE CLASS: MAKING IT THEIR WAY

Photographer Francesca Allen captures the talented, genuine and real

KOD Staff

Read more »
Share »

'80S ICON KEITH HARING’S POP SHOP

The Art and Commerce of Giving Back

Alessandro Esculapio

Read more »
Share »

THE DEATH OF BRONSON

The art and literature of "Charles Bronson"; Britain's most notorious prisoner

KOD Staff

Read more »
Share »

THE PSYCHEDELIC LOVE-IN OF THE FABULOUS COCKETTES

San Francisco’s original underground glitter troupe

KOD Staff

Read more »
Share »

THE MODERN DAY DANDY CULT

Old fashioned values and classic sartorial style returns to mens fashion

Ellie Howard

Read more »
Share »
Top